Our Crisis series obliges many restaurateurs to replace their traditional festive meal with a pro’s New Year’s Eve to take away. This week, “La Provence” opens their menus to you. It’s an inn lost at the end of Marseille, when the road turns into a path. Here, the water of the hills is not a novel, it is the very story of a district-village where Joseph Pagnol (when he still had the keys to the canal …) and the young Marcel had their shortcuts. The writer is buried there, in the small cemetery, next to his mother Augustine. Yet, despite this heritage, the real strength of La Treille (11th arrondissement) lies in never having turned into a pagnolesque chromo for tourists. We are not in Montmartre, this is Mar
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